How to Make Candles at Home with a Candle Making Kit

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See the full process in 2 minutes

How to Make Candles at Home with the RV Organica Candle Making Kit – video tutorial

Before you start

What you'll need

Everything below is inside the kit except a double boiler (or a heat-safe jug in a pan of hot water), a kitchen thermometer and scissors.

Wax250 g (soy, beeswax, candelilla or carnauba)

Candle fragrance oils2 × 10 ml

Candle wax colours2 × 10 ml

Dried flowers10 g

Pre-waxed cotton wick2 m roll

Silicone candle mould

Spatula & dropper

Gloves

Double boiler or heat-safe jugnot in kit

Kitchen thermometerrecommended, not in kit

Scissorsnot in kit

Safety first. Always melt wax over a water bath — never on a direct flame, never in the microwave, and never leave melting wax unattended. Wear the gloves when handling hot wax. Keep fragrance oils and colours away from children and pets, and don't apply fragrance oil to skin. Burn finished candles on a heat-resistant surface, away from drafts, curtains and anything flammable.

Know your wax

Wax temperature guide — all 5 kits

The steps below are the same for every kit. Only the temperatures change with the wax — use a thermometer and follow your kit's row.

Kit / wax	Melts at	Add fragrance & pour	Good to know
Soy Wax	49–52 °C	Fragrance at ~60 °C · pour at 55–60 °C	Use on its own. Lowest melting point — the easiest kit for a first candle. Cleans up with warm soapy water.
Yellow Beeswax	62–64 °C	Fragrance at 71–74 °C · pour at 68–74 °C	Use on its own. Natural honey scent, so stay at the lower fragrance % (6%). Golden tint warms colours; blues/purples can go greenish.
White Beeswax	62–64 °C	Fragrance at 71–74 °C · pour at 68–74 °C	Use on its own. Same as yellow beeswax but filtered white — best beeswax for pastels and true colours.
Candelilla Wax	68–72 °C	Fragrance at ~75 °C · pour at 70–75 °C	Hard vegan wax — blend with soy (start 20–30% candelilla, rest soy). Firmer, glossier candles that hold shape in hot weather.
Carnauba Wax	82–86 °C	Fragrance at ~80 °C · pour at 75–80 °C	Hardener, not a stand-alone wax — blend 10–20% carnauba into soy or beeswax. Too much carnauba = cracks.

Step by step

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⏱ 5 minKids can help

Set up your workspace and fix the wick

Lay out newspaper, put on the gloves and set out everything from the kit. Cut a piece of wick about 3 cm taller than your mould or container. For the silicone mould, thread the wick through the hole at the bottom and seal with a bit of wax or tape. For a glass jar, stick the wick to the centre of the base and hold it straight with a pencil or clip laid across the rim.

Pro tip: A centred wick is the difference between an even burn and a tunnel down one side — take 30 seconds to get it dead centre.

⏱ 10–15 minHeat

Melt the wax over a water bath

Put the wax in a heat-safe jug or bowl and set it in a pan of gently simmering water (double boiler). Stir with the spatula until there are no solid pieces left. Check the wax guide above for your kit's melting point — soy melts at 49–52 °C, beeswax at 62–64 °C, candelilla and carnauba need more.

Candelilla or Carnauba kit? Melt your soy or beeswax base first, then stir in the hard wax until fully dissolved and the mix is clear.

Pro tip: Never put wax in the microwave or directly on the flame — wax is flammable and heats unevenly. A ₹200 kitchen thermometer makes every step after this predictable.

10:00

⏱ 2–3 min

Take it off the heat and let it cool slightly

Remove the jug from the water bath and let the wax drop to the fragrance temperature for your kit (about 60 °C for soy, 71–74 °C for beeswax). Adding fragrance to wax that's too hot burns off the scent before it ever reaches the candle.

2:00

⏱ 2 min

Add fragrance oil

Use the dropper to add the amount from the calculator — for a full 250 g batch at 8% that's 20 ml, i.e. both bottles. Stir slowly and steadily for a full 1–2 minutes so the oil binds into the wax instead of sitting on top.

Pro tip: Want to mix both fragrances? Keep the total the same — e.g. 12 ml of one + 8 ml of the other. Only use candle-grade fragrance oils.

⏱ 1 min

Add colour, a few drops at a time

Add 3–5 drops of candle colour, stir, and test by dropping a little wax on a white saucer — it sets in seconds and shows the true shade. Keep adding until you like it. Beeswax, candelilla and carnauba have a natural yellow tint that warms colours, so pastels come out creamier.

Pro tip: Colour always looks darker in the pot than in the finished candle — stop slightly earlier than you think.

⏱ 3 minHeat

Pour at the right temperature

Let the wax drop to your kit's pour temperature (55–60 °C for soy, 68–74 °C for beeswax) and pour slowly and steadily into the mould or jar, keeping the wick centred. Leave about 1 cm at the top. Pouring too hot is the number-one cause of sinkholes and cracks.

Pro tip: Warm a glass jar slightly before pouring (a minute in warm water, then dried) for smoother sides and less wet-spotting.

⏱ 1 minKids can help

Decorate with dried flowers

Once the surface has turned cloudy and started to firm up (a few minutes), press the dried flowers gently onto the top so they sit in the wax rather than floating. Keep flowers away from the wick — at least 1 cm clear — so they never catch the flame.

⏱ 4–6 hrWait

Let it set — slowly, at room temperature

Leave the candle flat and undisturbed at room temperature, away from fans, AC and open windows. It's firm in 4–6 hours and fully set overnight. Skip the fridge — fast cooling causes cracks and pulls the wax away from the glass.

240:00

⏱ 2 min

Unmould, trim the wick and cure

For the silicone mould, flex the sides and push gently from the bottom. Trim the wick to about 5–6 mm. For the best scent throw, let the candle cure for 24–48 hours before the first burn (beeswax likes a few days). On the first burn, let the melt pool reach the edge of the container before blowing it out — this stops tunnelling for the life of the candle.

Pro tip: Wrap or box the finished candle if you're gifting it — fragrance fades faster when left open.

Get the ratio right

Fragrance & colour calculator

Too little fragrance and the candle smells of nothing when lit; too much and the oil can sweat out or affect the burn. Enter your wax weight and we'll give you the exact amount — 6–10% of wax weight is the range that works for candle wax.

Wax weight (grams)

Fragrance strength

How many candles are you pouring?

Fragrance oil—

≈ drops (dropper)—

Colour (start with)—

Base per piece—

Based on 1 ml ≈ 20 drops with the kit dropper. For a full 250 g batch at 8% that's 20 ml — exactly the two 10 ml bottles in the kit. Add colour a few drops at a time and test on a white saucer; colour looks darker in the pot than in the set candle.

Something went wrong?

Troubleshooting

Sinkhole or dip in the centre

Why it happens: Wax poured too hot, or it cooled too fast so the centre shrank after the edges set.

Fix: Keep a little wax aside, re-melt it and do a thin second pour to fill the dip once the first pour is firm. Next time pour slightly cooler and let it set away from drafts.

Cracks on the top

Why it happens: Cooling too quickly (fridge, AC, fan), or too much carnauba/candelilla in the blend.

Fix: Set at room temperature, pour at the lower end of your wax's range, and if you're blending hard waxes use less of them.

Weak or no scent when lit

Why it happens: Fragrance added while the wax was too hot, dose below 6%, or the candle wasn't cured.

Fix: Add fragrance at the right temperature and stir for a full 1–2 minutes, use 8% for a reliable throw, and cure 24–48 hours before the first burn.

Candle tunnels down the middle

Why it happens: First burn was too short, or the wick is off-centre or too thin for the container width.

Fix: On every burn — especially the first — let the melt pool reach the edge (roughly 1 hour per 2.5 cm of diameter). Keep the wick centred and trimmed to 5–6 mm.

Frosting / white film on the surface

Why it happens: Natural crystallisation in soy, or 'bloom' in beeswax — both are harmless.

Fix: It doesn't affect the burn. For looks, warm the surface gently with a hair dryer, or pour slightly cooler and cool slowly next time.

Wax pulled away from the glass (wet spots)

Why it happens: Glass was cold or the candle cooled unevenly.

Fix: Warm the jar before pouring and set the candle somewhere with steady room temperature. Purely cosmetic — the candle burns fine.

Flame is tiny or keeps going out

Why it happens: Wick trimmed too short, or too much fragrance oil drowning the wick.

Fix: Trim to 5–6 mm, not shorter. Keep fragrance within 6–10%. If a pool of oil sits on top, pour it off and relight.

Try next

3 things you can make with the same kit

Layered two-colour candle

Pour half the wax in one colour, wait until the surface is firm but still warm (15–20 min), then pour the second colour on top. Pour the second layer a little cooler so it doesn't melt into the first.

Flower-top gift candle

Press dried flowers onto the top once it turns cloudy, keeping 1 cm clear around the wick. Tie a jute string and a kraft tag around the jar — ready for Diwali, weddings and return gifts.

Mini tealights from one batch

Pour the same batch into an ice-cube tray or small silicone cups with a short wick in each for a set of tealights — great for testing fragrance combinations before a bigger pour.

Common questions

FAQ

How many candles does one kit make?

One kit has 250 g of wax — enough for one batch in the included silicone mould, or about two 100 ml jar candles. The exact count depends on your mould or container size. Extra wax, wicks, colours and fragrance oils are sold separately on our site.

Which kit should a beginner start with?

Soy Wax — it has the lowest melting point, is forgiving with temperatures and cleans up with warm soapy water. Beeswax is the next step up. Candelilla and Carnauba are hard waxes meant for blending with soy or beeswax.

Can I use the kit wax in glass jars instead of the mould?

Yes. Stick the wick to the centre of a heat-safe jar, hold it upright with a pencil or clip, and pour as normal. Warm the jar slightly first for smoother sides.

How much fragrance oil should I add?

6–10% of the wax weight. For the full 250 g batch, 8% is 20 ml — exactly the two 10 ml bottles in the kit. Use the calculator above for any other weight, and only use candle-grade fragrance oils.

Do I need to blend Candelilla or Carnauba wax with something?

Yes. Both are hard waxes. Candelilla works best at 20–30% blended with soy; Carnauba is a hardener used at 10–20% in soy or beeswax. Used alone they can crack and burn unevenly.

Why does my beeswax candle have a white film?

That's bloom — a natural, harmless film that appears on beeswax over time. Wipe it off with a soft cloth or warm it gently with a hair dryer.

Can I sell candles made with this kit?

Yes. Many customers test their recipes with the kit and then move to bulk wax, fragrance oils, colours, wicks and moulds from us once they have a few happy buyers.

Is it safe for kids to join in?

Fixing the wick, choosing colours, adding flowers and unmoulding — absolutely. Keep the melting and pouring with an adult, since the wax is hot.

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